There is way more riding in Nova Scotia than just the Cabot Trail. Make sure you get your free copy of the Motorcycle Guide (Click Here). It is a publication made by bikers that lays out every detail you want to know as you travel through Nova Scotia. Instead of chopping the map up into counties, it has a section for each of our themed highways. It doesn’t matter if you have GPS or tank maps or whatever – the guide is a must have and fun to read while breaking for lunch. If you are looking for a conventional map of any of the provinces or all of Canada, I sell them on my up and coming Canada By Motorcycle website for $5.95ea + shipping. The guides are available each spring, and once they’re out, I will include a copy with any map purchase at no extra cost. To purchase maps, click here.
Figure out how many days you’d like to be in Nova Scotia. If you are here for 4 days or more, and are looking for as much riding as possible, plan two days for the trail. The Trail is a loop, and a true Trail Blazer will ride the loop clockwise and counterclockwise. The second key thing about riding the trail twice is that you can stay in the same spot two nights in a row (can unpack the bike a bit, have a cooler in the room for when you get back, have a place where you can cook, all that good stuff). If you are only going to ride the Trail once, then watch the forecast and pick the clearest day for your ride. When you get to Nova Scotia, pick your nicest day in the forecast, and get to bed in Antigonish (as the farthest away you want to be the night before) or any point closer to the trail. I go with a group twice a year and we stay at the Keltic Quay in Whycocomagh. It’s amazing. If you have a big group, call Renie and see if you can stay there…it adds a lot to the experience. Click here to see what they’re all about. Being that close to the trail lets you have a slow morning. The trail gives you 4ish hours of riding, so you don’t want to enter the loop before 10am. I live in Antigonish, so when I want to do the trail I leave town at 8am. That gives me a perfect, very full day of riding. If you are doing the loop once, I strongly reccomend that you don’t stay on the trail…you may end up doing the loop and not feel like you got enough riding in. I’d stay an hour or two away from Baddeck, ride the trail and then ride on till you feel like you had your fill that day.
Don’t miss Route 19! It is an awesome way of getting to or leaving the trail. Even if it makes you miss the bottom little section, it is a great ride with really good twisty roads.
Spring/Fall riding – When you are going up mountains and then back to ocean level, into the shade, then into the sun, you’ll find the temperature changing a lot. Just cause it’s hot in the morning doesn’t mean you should leave your jacket in your room.
Which Way? Clockwise? Counter-Clockwise?
This is a huge debate. Some folks say it has better views one way over the other. I think some have had better experiences with weather or traffic and just credit the direction they were going that day. BMW forums suggest to always go counter-clockwise to enjoy the ride. My favourite way is Counter-clockwise. I love the climb at Cape Smokey, and if you go the otherway, it is a slow rise up and fast downhill while standing on the brake. This is just my opinion. But here’s a fact: Less tourists drive counter-clockwise. The reason is that to go this route, you have to pass a huge sign that reads “Cabot Trail – LEFT”. Most tourists go left and therefore complete the trail clockwise. If you pass that sign, 20 mins down the road is the entrance to go counter-clockwise. Because of this, I find you come up on RV’s way less if you travel counter clockwise. If I was your guide for one trip only, that’s the route we’d go. Lots of riders disagree with me, but that’s my 2 cents. If you are a small group on Hayabusa’s, having to pass people is less of a hassle than it is for a low and slow guy like me. (updated May 26th, 2010…)Since posting this site, I’ve opened a can of worms on this one! A 20 year veteran tour guide said he always went Clockwise if the group only had one go-around. I don’t have that much experience, that’s for sure! Business wise, I’d sell a lot more shirts if you went with his advice since Coastal Waters Restaurant only opens at 11am in the spring (they’re serving breakfast now during peak season), and you might get there too early going counter clockwise. If you’re making good time clockwise, or entering early counter clockwise, don’t miss The Clucking Hen Cafe & Bakery. There’s a young girl working there that’s done a life’s worth of motorcycle trips and I think she’s done some editorials for Motorcycle Mojo magazine. Stopping at the Clucking Hen for a coffee and a chat might be able to slow you down enough for hitting the Coastal Waters Restaurant at lunch time to pick up some grub and one of my shirts or the riding sunglasses.
One of the points the experience guide raised was that bikers seem to be early risers. You just can’t enter the Trail before 10 am in my opinion. But, if you go clockwise…on the pretty drive to the trail…with perfect sunny weather…you might see mist dance on the water between the Red Barn exit and the trail. It’s at a certain time when the sun comes over the mountains(or hills, if you’re from a true mountain range). I guess it is mind blowing – let us know if you see it. Now…to collect some data on the debate – please click here to fill out a 10 second, 2 question survey – and you can help me foster a democratic debate. Keep in mind, 100% say going around both ways is the solution to the problem…
Ferry at Englishtown
In 2010 I wrote: Don’t take the Englishtown Ferry, you’d be missing good riding. However, since I’ve toured with a few of you guys/gals in different weather or have been running late… the ferry does save you half an hour. Also, the road that is bypassed by the ferry is in rough shape. They are redoing another 8k of the section this year, so hopefully it will get back in order. If it is sunny, and you have lots of time, I suggest skipping the ferry. If you are going to go on the ferry, here is what to expect…
The ferry is on a cable that stretches about 500′ across the channel. If you just miss the ferry when you arrive, it will be back and forth in about 12 minutes (a smoke and a pee). There is a small building there with washrooms. You still save time even if you just miss the boat.
When you get on the ferry, you will be charged $5.50 to get on. I met 3 riders from Ontario, and told them this. So I asked them for $10, and told them I’d buy a book of 20 passes, and give them three. I thought I was saving them $7.50. But there are no books anymore. They’ve replaced it with punch cards. For $12.50, you get 10 punches. So I really only saved my friends $2.50. BUT, would they have asked for a punch card? No… who would think of it? So – riders of 3 or more – ask for a punch card. When you are about to leave the Island, and know you won’t be on the ferry again, leave the punch card with your tip or give it to a local.
See the land in front of me? ...then the land behind the boat? That is how short the cable ferry is.
Fuel
Get gas at any Caper Gas, or Baddeck, before entering the trail. A couple of stations on the trail don’t have supreme (High Octane), so I’d feel better topping up first. In Nova Scotia, you’ll notice that our Supreme Fuel is usually 91 Octane. Regular is 87 Octane. It is always labeled on the pumps, if you see 93 Octane, snatch it up for sure. Don’t worry about running out of gas. Check out the Map section, click on the image to make it big… Gas stations in Ingonish, and in Cheticamp, and that is only an hour and a half or so of riding.
Evening
Don’t ride in the evening – you’ll be on the lookout for moose and will be too distracted to enjoy.
Park Pass
Buy a Park pass if you want to get photos. If you stop your bike inside the National Park, even if just to take a photo, there are guys in pickup trucks that check to see if you have a pass. They cost around $10 and save you a big fine.
Eating, or Refreshing
I need you and your group to stop at Coastal Waters Restaurant. I’m all about welcoming fellow bikers to enjoy Nova Scotia, but I’ve got to pay the bills. I started a T-Shirt business when I was 16, and my best one ever is the Original Cabot Trail Biker T-Shirt. It is available at this restaurant only. I don’t even have any at my shop. It’s the only way to ensure that only those who rode the trail get to wear the shirt. The restaurant is in Ingonish. They are an hour and a bit from Cheticamp, so you’d likely be stopping in those two towns anyway. Please take you and your buddies there incase someone needs the shirt. As my business’ ads always say…naked sucks, buy our stuff! There are no bike dealerships on your Cabot Trail travels, it’s your only spot for a nice shirt for men and/or ladies.
Group Riding
The Trail is really twisty, and pretty, and all that great stuff – but there is another great feature that no one ever mentions – there’s hardly anyone there. It is so much like this that you’ll be thinking “is this pavement laid here just for bikers like me?”. The speed zone is reduced in only 2 spots – Cheticamp and Ingonish. Other than that, you pretty much pace yourself to your ability. I’m not saying to disobey the speed limit and go as fast as you want. The point is, if you are in a group, and you are going slower than you want because of someone’s ability in front of you, the day can be ruined. I go with a group of 20 each year. First group is of all the sport bikes. Second group, is the aggressive cruisers. The last 10 or so of us are in 3 more groups yet. We had to do this to make sure we could all just ride our own pace. Even if you are a small group – put the fastest in the front and make it clear on the day where you are stopping and make sure everyone is okay if you split up.
Looking to soak in all the informatin I can before brining a group to NS. Thanks for the information on your site. Looking forward to getting one of your t-shirts.
Helpful site. Found it in the motorcycle guide and we are planning to get the t-shirt. Counter-clockwise it is ! See you in July.
Lyndon
great site and good advises. see you in less then 2 weeks.
Email from Rob Bistro, NY, USA June ride, 2010:
Hey Daniel,
Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. We’ve been back from our trip for a couple of weeks now. We all make it home in one piece. We did 2500 miles, 5-1/2 days, and the ride of a life time! We had some rain the 1st day up to Maine and the last night back through Maine (Maine is my “new” least favorite place to ride. LOL). We wound up doing the trail clockwise the 1st day and counter clock wise the next. The weather was awesome, the vistas incredible and the people, like you said, went above and beyond in the niceness department.
One of us ran out of gas 3 miles from our stay for the night. It was late and all the stations were closed for the night. A total stranger went back to his house and brought back some gas for us. Enough to get us to the hotel and an open station the next day. And that was right after a great meal a a restaurant that was just closing up. They welcomed us with open arms, served us a great dinner as we told stories of our journey. We even met a guy who was coming from BC. He was going coast to coast and back! His trip put ours to shame.
As for the debate, clockwise or counter clock wise? You can’t go wrong with either way. But, by doing it in both directions you see an entirely different view.
We all stopped by Coastal Waters for T-shirts. By far the best ones on the trail. (Not too many souvenir stops!)
I have attached a few pictures of our trip (I am the 3rd from the right). I thank you once again my friend for all of the suggestions you gave us. If you’re ever in the Connecticut-New York area, drop me a line and perhaps I can be as gracious as you have been to us. Take care.
So glad I found this blog! Will be riding in NS beginning next week (Aug 21st) with a group of bikers from Louisiana. We need to escape the heat! We will come by the restaurant and I will try to convince the group to ride counter clockwise! We have two days in CP but only one day on the trail. See you on the trail 25th Aug.
Right on! Big connection with the Acadians in Nova Scotia to Louisiana – you should feel very at home. If you’ve got one rip around…see if you can choose the day with the nicest weather. In the meantime, I’ll call Mother Nature and ask for a beauty on August 25th! It’s a big ride up – ride safe! You’re welcome to call or email when you’re coming through! Daniel
Great site with great info! I look forward to planning my trip back home to Bathurst NB next summer (2011) and will most likely go to NS and ride the Cabot Trail since my 21 years in NB, I haven’t seen the Cabot Trail!
Looking forward to stopping in these special little places that were mentioned also! Hopefully I can pick up a few biker friends along the way to join!
Cheers!
Tina
Good stuff! Welcome back! Let me know when you’re going through and I’ll let you know of who’s going around at that time. …and don’t forget to send me a photo!
[...] Planning Your Trip [...]
[...] Planning Your Trip [...]
[...] Planning Your Trip [...]
Hello,
We are planning to spend 7 days in Nova Scotia between July 2 and 8. We have read that the weather can fluctuate and that some rides are better taken after seeing the weather forecast a couple of days in advance. We have a general plan, but wonder if we should make firm plans (reservations) and just stick to it trusting to luck. We also understand that our dates are in the prime tourism period. Is it practical to think that we will be able to find lodging in a different place each night without reservations?
Steve & Millie
Hi Steve,
I recommend going with the weather and letting everything else fall into place. It sounds irresponsible at first, but don’t get obsessed with staying on the actual Cabot Trail. I ride it all the time and I live in Arisaig, Antigonish Co., 3 hrs from the trail… mind you, I don’t stop as much as you would/should to see the sights. You’d be better off staying in Sydney or Port Hawkesbury with great weather than staying right on the Trail loop in bad weather. If you get a spot right on the Trail, or Baddeck, or Whycocomagh, type spots, I actually suggest waiting till 10:30 am before entering the loop. That being said, it would probably be better to have a couple extra coffees and longer stops than getting up early for highway driving before the Trail. Whenever I take some bikes around, I enter at 10 or 11, Lunch at 1-2:30, then coffees at 4-5 and done at 6pm. Start earlier if you want to take lots of photos. There’s about 30 lookoffs along the way…
(614) – Ohio, maybe? Awesome!!! You should be traveling ‘with’ the weather…that will help you feel confident about making the right weather decisions.
Hi, Steve.
Thanks for this most informative website. I will be doing a solo ride from Daytona Beach, FL later this month and expect to arrive for three days of riding though Nova Scotia around July 2. Everything I’ve read thus far tells me the Cabot Trail is a must do. I appreciate all the work you’ve done on this site, especially posting the listings for accommodations. Looking forward to getting a T-shirt. . . or two!
Thanks so much! The accommodations page is an unpaid listing – so please put a comment there if you have a good or a bad experience, or find a good deal, etc. If you comment about your trip you might help the next biker have a better vacation. Thanks for wanting a couple tees – I’ve sold a few already and it is quite early in the season – great to have your support! Safe miles my man, call or drop a line when you get to Nova Scotia. I’ll order Sun for July 2.
Daniel (902)870-4630 or cabottrailbiker@gmail.com
Hi Daniel,
We’re riding up from Georgia to the Cabot Trail in 3 days (we should get to the Trail June 28) and I just stumbled upon your site. This is an incredible place to gather information! Thank you so much!
I do have one question: we will be bringing our tents and sleeping bags, so where is/are some good places to camp? I’d like to stay close to water if possible and we will both be on sportbikes, so it will need to be fairly easy to navigate on the bikes.
Thanks again and I look forward to grabbing a shirt or two!
Tiffany
Hi Tiffany,
Hopefully our weather will be good for you…we’ve had a tough June, but things are looking up over the next few days. Beautiful campgrounds are plentiful in Nova Scotia. I’m glad you asked because I should have a ‘campgrounds’ page for the site… In Antigonish, where I’m from, 2 hrs into NS and 2 hrs from the Cabot Trail, Whidden’s Park is awesome. Laundry, nice showers, very clean and well run, beautiful inland setting (no wind). While on the Trail, you can stay at the Canadian National Park (Highlands) or NS Provincial parks for the more wooded, authentic campground type of feel. Sport bikes would be easy to navigate in any campground, no worries there. I remember going across Canada on a Ninja with bags and pillows bungied to every bit of fairing I had…memories! I’m so jealous of everyone’s trips!!! Thank you so much for coming up from Georgia! We’ve got the welcome mats out for you! Give a call when you’re close and send me a picture of those sport bikes all loaded up!!! Be Safe! Daniel. (902)870-4630.
Thanks so much for the information about the Cabot Trail. My two friends and I thoroughly enjoyed the Trail and used your website as a planning guide…everything worked out perfect! We opted to go counter clockwise and were not disappointed. I have pics posted here – http://www.faceyman.com/2011/07/day-1-2.html
Again, thanks!
I was with a group of 4 other women and we were in NS from June 19 to 24. It rained every day except 2 – everything from sprinkling to pouring. We rode the trail from Baddeck to Cheticamp and back one day in the pouring rain, then the entire trail counterclockwise the next. We started out with sun, but ran into rain (of course!) and fog. Between Pleasant Bay and Cheticamp was a foggy, hairy ride down the mountain in 2nd gear going 15 mpg, trying to see the tail light ahead through the fog. Boy, were we glad to stop for lunch! So sorry we didn’t get to experience the trail and the province without the unseasonable rain. One comment about your shirts – we stopped and some of us bought, but please! – not all people are into skulls. We love riding, and we loved the cabot trail, but we don’t love the whole pirate thingy. We bought the shirts DESPITE the skulls. Also, if you could offer a tank, or a woman’s shirt – that would certainly boost your sales.
Hello Carol,
I hope you dried out! This June was absolutely horrible. Last year June was awesome. You never know. I guess that’s why this place is so lush…. Thanks for your support, even though you had to skull it up a little. I heard all of your comments already, from all the ladies at the restaurant. I have you on my biker email list, because I will be launching a full line of Nova Scotia by Motorcycle apparel. I’d love to have your feedback when they come around. For the Cabot Trail tees, I will definitely do an update for ladies at some point. Why don’t you send me a pic of your favorite style, even if it’s a pic off a website, for my consideration? (Send me a pic for this site too, with you and your bikes) …and please come back when the sun is shining!
Nice write up on the Cabot Trail. My wife and I lead a five day group ride every Sept during the week following Labour day. This will be our fifth year. Leaving Larry’s River, Guysborough County (two night base camp) we then camp in Louisbourg, KOA in N Sydney and then Meat Cove for our Edge of the Earth Gathering. Riders (less than 20), have come from as far away as Texas for the ride. We agree with your trail preferences but would l add, regarding the clockwise/counterclockwise debate, that another reason that we prefer the counterclockwise is because the majority of the pull-offs are on our side so taking a group across traffic is minimal. Didn’t know that about stopping in the park. Will review that one and be sure that we don’t have ‘an issue’ with it. Again, nice write-up and we will certainly add your link onto our marketing activities. – Bob
Thanks so much Bob! That sounds like an awesome tour that you do, please comment with contact info if you invite is open to the public. I never thought of the pull off’s on the right going ccw before – good point. Since you’re a seasoned Trail Blazer, I would appreciate any other insights I have missed throughout the site… anything to help a fellow rider get all the info they need for a great trip. I wish you and all your guests safe travels in 2012!
Lots of awesome information. Thank you! I plan to be part of a group from New Brunswick riding the trail in July this year (9th or so onward). We’ll definitely be looking for t-shirts, and will consider either doing counterclockwise or two trips around to see it all. I grew up in Cape Breton (Port Hawkesbury) and don’t get back very often. Again, thanks for all the biker friendly info.
Hi Brenda,
The great thing about planning 2 days is that if one day is nasty, just pick the better one! I hope your trip and the weather is good. Check with the site just before leaving as I am adding a live road construction link soon. I’ll send you and email when it is up and running. Don’t forget to send a pic of you and your group!
I will! Thank you!